it was a great read, thank you! i wish this situation wasn’t so unnoticed, all of her new launches are all over the media (even not fashion related magazines!) but not this. even brenda hashtag who started this conversation (or made it viral idk) praised the collection just a couple of weeks later with their corso como retail launch.
Thank you for reading! It's a shame more critical voices really can't exist in traditional fashion outlets by the nature of how they operate. Something I didn't delve into is how many of the posts by former employees were critical of the company's operations and I'm curious, given all the coverage as you mention, how the brand is even doing in reality.
I really loved this piece and it made me feel guilty for not being one of the more critical voices-- but then when I got to the end of your writing, you shared my exact why.
I recently posted a note about Phoebe and restrained myself from dabbling into the personal. I cut her a break knowing how hard it is to accomplish what she has, but what I didn't mention are all the rumors about her being in and out of rehab, her husband cheating on her, etc. To some degree I didn't want to blast her personal life, but I actually think this is a big problem in our world today. We suppress the negative and then are surprised when the effects of that starts to ooze through their / our cracks and consequently spreads and impacts others negatively. I wonder if Phoebe didn't feel like she had to keep it all together or was getting the support she needed in her personal life, would the way she shows up at work be different? Maybe she would get the empathy and sympathy from those around her that she needs to be softer? Most toxic workplaces come to exist because their leaders are devoid of the emotional intelligence or softness (for lack of better words) required to be good leaders, to connect and manage others respectfully. And then of course most people are scared to speak out in fear of jeopardizing their futures so there leaves little room for accountability and productive conversations to happen. It's a bad cycle a lot of industries seem to operate on.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read and respond! I totally hear you. I completely agree that the business and the personal do overlap to some degree, effecting one another in the process. I've heard some very attention-grabbing things about Phoebe that were confirmed by close industry sources (some with famous names), I just tend to err on the side of caution, not in order to be protective of those who are already overly protected, but because the ethics of exposing certain familial dynamics or bits of medical history become very murky.
When it comes to Phoebe's behavior overall, I really feel it's far more reflective of the industry she grew up in. In my career, I've had the opportunity to work with and around people from her generation, and the way they relate to others in the workplace is deeply unwell. To be frank, most of them who work at a high level today in senior roles were terrorized and abused by the people they worked under, even their own mentors. Oh, the horror stories I could share (and will one day in a newsletter). The sad part is, those people, like Phoebe, turned around and began abusing their underlings as soon as they could. It's such a toxic cycle that I think is, thankfully, dying out – but not quickly enough. The industry needs to dispel this idea that being abusive results in better work.
You're exactly right that people in the industry are sold this idea that if they don't rock the boat and work hard, they'll have career success and don't speak out because as a result. For many, including me, that just isn't the case, so I don't hesitate to speak out. I really hope more people do the same when they can. I promise that more transparency and a day of reckoning are coming for fashion. It's just a matter of when.
Totally understand and am happy to find people like you who are speaking out and bringing attention to matters that are often overlooked (deliberately or not). Unfortunately it's a tale as old as time, the abused becoming the abuser. Sadly a cycle or idea like this does not simply "die out" without doing deep psychological, healing work but I do agree a day of reckoning is coming and I am hopeful for better leaders, better practices, and better institutions.
“Reflective of the industry she grew up in” is so true. I’ve observed this myself working with people in the industry from their generation. One of the designers I worked for who was tutored by the legendary Louise Wilson under CSM’s MA program spoke about her casual racism. We really need to break the cycle. “Devil Wears Prada” attitudes no longer work in 2025!
Wow, that's so sad to hear about someone as revered as Louise. The cycle does indeed need to break, especially now that this industry is ready to collapse under its own weight.
You're absolutely right. It is a pervasive issue and very difficult to solve. For so long, people across industries have had their careers threatened by speaking out, and it remains a powerful impetus to keep quiet.
And yes, I have received backlash a few times. Just one example: In 2018 or 2019, I wrote a piece about how Comme Des Garçons hadn't hired a Black model for its mainline runway shows in almost 25 years at that point in time. Let's just say most of the comments under that article ended up getting deleted by the company that published the piece because they were so inappropriate. I was still receiving nasty DMs about that article two years later. Rei is a genius, but people didn't want to accept that her casting was quite racist. I do wonder if the response would have been different if I had written the article after the protests surrounding the murder of George Floyd just a year or two later when conversations around race shifted (at least temporarily) in the US.
Thank you, Martin, for your considered response. I do think it would have been received differently after the murder of George Floyd. It took me a long time to accept that the zeitgeist does influence people's interpretation, even if it's of something that is very clearly wrong. Long ago my father told me that, sometimes, things happen that are clearly wrong and individuals see it but society doesn't recognise it. And if we can survive long enough, we get to see society recognise it and change. It seems to take a long time, though :-/
this is a fabulous piece (and i've been going through your archive of writing and also really enjoying other posts, particularly the pieces on margiela at hermes and jil sanders). unfortunately it's so common that excuses are made for talent at the expense of decency, across all fields.
phoebe philo at celine was my first fashion awakening and i remember poring over the photos during my undergrad. but iman's comments (which felt like they also kind of went nowhere?) stuck with me and i find it depressingly plausible
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and the older posts as well! I completely agree that excuses get made for unacceptable behavior across various fields just because people have talent. The layers of protection from business associates to the press is staggering. I also think its relevant to mention they way race can play into that, which could be part of why Iman's comments really didn't seem to go anywhere as you said. Shamefully, I don't think grievances shared by certain populations really matter to the powers that be unless it somehow comes to affect sales. As long as the money comes in, they don't care how they got it.
I’m always interested in myth-making, particularly when it has so much retrospective traction, so I watched the reporting of her label with interest even though buying into it was never a consideration. But I immediately lost interest in reading more when it became apparent she had launched with a very restricted size range. For someone starting up with so much hype and attention, that could only be a deliberate decision, and is quite despicable.
You're absolutely correct–it was most certainly a deliberate decision. And even if the sizing was scaled up, the way she cuts is really only suited to someone with a very narrow, slim frame such as herself. The line is really not very friendly to many customers. I'm trying to learn more about how the business itself is doing because I can't imagine results are as strong as they're trying to project.
Martin!!! —reading it was such a thoughtful and enlightening experience. I really appreciate the time and care you put into articulating these insights so intelligently. I often feel caught in a complex dilemma: I love fashion and the beauty and communication it can bring, yet it’s increasingly becoming toxic, superficial, and false. There are moments when it feels like there’s no way forward, but reading perspectives like yours gives me a sense of peace. People need to be better at reflecting on the society we live in—past, present, and future—and with an ever-more neoliberal world, it seems like money is now powerful enough to buy character and hide the many uncomfortable truths of our industry. Living today is complicated, with countless layers to each person’s experience. But for me, critical thinking, research, and respect are non-negotiables, regardless of any supposed creative genius. I spent a decade working in the U.S. fashion industry, where I saw and felt the same issues you describe. Now that I’m back in Brazil, it’s disappointing to find the industry here even further behind—following the same toxic patterns, with almost no leadership or direction. I’m officially canceling my Apple TV and subscribing to your newsletter! 🥰🤓 TYSM for sharing your voice—it genuinely makes me feel less alone in an industry I both love and struggle with.
Thank you so much for writing such a thoughtful response! I too love fashion – for the craft, for the creativity – but I have long been disillusioned about the industry that props it up. We've reached a point, sadly, where most of the labels I grew up loving have become creatively bankrupt. But I believe we can keep finding ways to do better. I think things might have to completely collapse before they can be rebuilt – and we might be in the early stages of that now. My fingers are crossed for a more positive future. Thank you for subscribing! It means so much to me, and there is much more to come. 🤍
Thank you for your important piece. It is maddening that the industry is so petrified of folks speaking out that no one will say a thing. I hate to think that people are suffering without any recourse. All because of people with status. Sooner or later, the truth will come out. Won't it?
I completely agree. I hope that more and more find themselves able to share their stories. It truly is shameful how people look the other way or make excuses, as though abuse should come with the fashion territory and some just aren't tough enough to endure it. Romanticizing cruelty is one of fashion's worst traits. The truth will absolutely come out.
Same! My guess would be because she has ties to publications and other businesses that may want to work with/cover Phoebe and Brenda didn't want to cause larger issues. But who knows.
Great read! I want to say I’m surprised but.. Always loved Phoebe at Celine, but reading this (and the fact that the issue wasn’t picked up by major publications is telling! I imagine a cliche ‘toxic’ fashion industry environment, long hours and critical. I’ve worked & interned for some great and some pretentious designers before, and I feel with more exposure of toxic behaviour, the industry is being forced to unlearn a lot and adopt ethical frameworks, which is hopeful 😊
Your focus on calling out the real issues involved with the industry is to be commended. The valuable resource “people” being as much a focus of the success of the brand as the all mighty designer who would be nowhere without their team. Please keep going with your insightful coverage of all things real about our industry.
Thank you for your support, always! I wish fashion would shift it's focus away from these megastar creative directors. Just as you said, without genius patternmakers, sewers, fabric developers, leather specialists, and many more, none of this business would be viable.
Really appreciated this piece, especially as a fan of her work at Celine. It seems particularly hard to find critical voices in an industry that’s based so much on access & exclusivity. I saw a panel / interview with the Diet Prada duo once and they spoke to the same challenge - hard to get invited to shows etc. when you’re posting about brands’ bad behavior…
Thank you so much for reading and for your comment! It is difficult to find critical voices these days and the few great ones who remain (Cathy Horyn, Robin Givhan, etc) might be the last who have their kind of platform. The outlets which once supported those voices are dwindling and I hope more critical perspectives emerge using new tools.
The thing is… Fashion industry is very stressful and it’s almost impossible to deal with the system on a humane level. From people who work there I hear that she is lovely but that ofc they work too much… Do we think she is trying her best? I hope so. Anyways a great Article we should all try to improve the industry systems that make it so frantic
Hm. Sounds bad. Having been editor in chief of a big newspaper my reaction is: every company always has umhappy former employees. Your piece would have been stronger if you had included some positiv reviews - if there are any. By the way: I have no connection to her or the fashion business. Thank you.
it was a great read, thank you! i wish this situation wasn’t so unnoticed, all of her new launches are all over the media (even not fashion related magazines!) but not this. even brenda hashtag who started this conversation (or made it viral idk) praised the collection just a couple of weeks later with their corso como retail launch.
Thank you for reading! It's a shame more critical voices really can't exist in traditional fashion outlets by the nature of how they operate. Something I didn't delve into is how many of the posts by former employees were critical of the company's operations and I'm curious, given all the coverage as you mention, how the brand is even doing in reality.
I really loved this piece and it made me feel guilty for not being one of the more critical voices-- but then when I got to the end of your writing, you shared my exact why.
I recently posted a note about Phoebe and restrained myself from dabbling into the personal. I cut her a break knowing how hard it is to accomplish what she has, but what I didn't mention are all the rumors about her being in and out of rehab, her husband cheating on her, etc. To some degree I didn't want to blast her personal life, but I actually think this is a big problem in our world today. We suppress the negative and then are surprised when the effects of that starts to ooze through their / our cracks and consequently spreads and impacts others negatively. I wonder if Phoebe didn't feel like she had to keep it all together or was getting the support she needed in her personal life, would the way she shows up at work be different? Maybe she would get the empathy and sympathy from those around her that she needs to be softer? Most toxic workplaces come to exist because their leaders are devoid of the emotional intelligence or softness (for lack of better words) required to be good leaders, to connect and manage others respectfully. And then of course most people are scared to speak out in fear of jeopardizing their futures so there leaves little room for accountability and productive conversations to happen. It's a bad cycle a lot of industries seem to operate on.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read and respond! I totally hear you. I completely agree that the business and the personal do overlap to some degree, effecting one another in the process. I've heard some very attention-grabbing things about Phoebe that were confirmed by close industry sources (some with famous names), I just tend to err on the side of caution, not in order to be protective of those who are already overly protected, but because the ethics of exposing certain familial dynamics or bits of medical history become very murky.
When it comes to Phoebe's behavior overall, I really feel it's far more reflective of the industry she grew up in. In my career, I've had the opportunity to work with and around people from her generation, and the way they relate to others in the workplace is deeply unwell. To be frank, most of them who work at a high level today in senior roles were terrorized and abused by the people they worked under, even their own mentors. Oh, the horror stories I could share (and will one day in a newsletter). The sad part is, those people, like Phoebe, turned around and began abusing their underlings as soon as they could. It's such a toxic cycle that I think is, thankfully, dying out – but not quickly enough. The industry needs to dispel this idea that being abusive results in better work.
You're exactly right that people in the industry are sold this idea that if they don't rock the boat and work hard, they'll have career success and don't speak out because as a result. For many, including me, that just isn't the case, so I don't hesitate to speak out. I really hope more people do the same when they can. I promise that more transparency and a day of reckoning are coming for fashion. It's just a matter of when.
Totally understand and am happy to find people like you who are speaking out and bringing attention to matters that are often overlooked (deliberately or not). Unfortunately it's a tale as old as time, the abused becoming the abuser. Sadly a cycle or idea like this does not simply "die out" without doing deep psychological, healing work but I do agree a day of reckoning is coming and I am hopeful for better leaders, better practices, and better institutions.
“Reflective of the industry she grew up in” is so true. I’ve observed this myself working with people in the industry from their generation. One of the designers I worked for who was tutored by the legendary Louise Wilson under CSM’s MA program spoke about her casual racism. We really need to break the cycle. “Devil Wears Prada” attitudes no longer work in 2025!
Wow, that's so sad to hear about someone as revered as Louise. The cycle does indeed need to break, especially now that this industry is ready to collapse under its own weight.
I think the lack of critical voices in every industry is a problem… how do we solve a problem and move forward if we can’t talk about it..
I’m curious, have you received any negative consequences for critical writing?
You're absolutely right. It is a pervasive issue and very difficult to solve. For so long, people across industries have had their careers threatened by speaking out, and it remains a powerful impetus to keep quiet.
And yes, I have received backlash a few times. Just one example: In 2018 or 2019, I wrote a piece about how Comme Des Garçons hadn't hired a Black model for its mainline runway shows in almost 25 years at that point in time. Let's just say most of the comments under that article ended up getting deleted by the company that published the piece because they were so inappropriate. I was still receiving nasty DMs about that article two years later. Rei is a genius, but people didn't want to accept that her casting was quite racist. I do wonder if the response would have been different if I had written the article after the protests surrounding the murder of George Floyd just a year or two later when conversations around race shifted (at least temporarily) in the US.
Thank you, Martin, for your considered response. I do think it would have been received differently after the murder of George Floyd. It took me a long time to accept that the zeitgeist does influence people's interpretation, even if it's of something that is very clearly wrong. Long ago my father told me that, sometimes, things happen that are clearly wrong and individuals see it but society doesn't recognise it. And if we can survive long enough, we get to see society recognise it and change. It seems to take a long time, though :-/
That's so, so true. It is sad that it takes so long, but I hope we can recognize these injustices sooner, rather than later and course correct.
Great piece! If fashion looks the other way, there is hope that a consumer won’t.
Yes! I hope we see better work practices across the board.
this is a fabulous piece (and i've been going through your archive of writing and also really enjoying other posts, particularly the pieces on margiela at hermes and jil sanders). unfortunately it's so common that excuses are made for talent at the expense of decency, across all fields.
phoebe philo at celine was my first fashion awakening and i remember poring over the photos during my undergrad. but iman's comments (which felt like they also kind of went nowhere?) stuck with me and i find it depressingly plausible
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and the older posts as well! I completely agree that excuses get made for unacceptable behavior across various fields just because people have talent. The layers of protection from business associates to the press is staggering. I also think its relevant to mention they way race can play into that, which could be part of why Iman's comments really didn't seem to go anywhere as you said. Shamefully, I don't think grievances shared by certain populations really matter to the powers that be unless it somehow comes to affect sales. As long as the money comes in, they don't care how they got it.
I’m always interested in myth-making, particularly when it has so much retrospective traction, so I watched the reporting of her label with interest even though buying into it was never a consideration. But I immediately lost interest in reading more when it became apparent she had launched with a very restricted size range. For someone starting up with so much hype and attention, that could only be a deliberate decision, and is quite despicable.
You're absolutely correct–it was most certainly a deliberate decision. And even if the sizing was scaled up, the way she cuts is really only suited to someone with a very narrow, slim frame such as herself. The line is really not very friendly to many customers. I'm trying to learn more about how the business itself is doing because I can't imagine results are as strong as they're trying to project.
Martin!!! —reading it was such a thoughtful and enlightening experience. I really appreciate the time and care you put into articulating these insights so intelligently. I often feel caught in a complex dilemma: I love fashion and the beauty and communication it can bring, yet it’s increasingly becoming toxic, superficial, and false. There are moments when it feels like there’s no way forward, but reading perspectives like yours gives me a sense of peace. People need to be better at reflecting on the society we live in—past, present, and future—and with an ever-more neoliberal world, it seems like money is now powerful enough to buy character and hide the many uncomfortable truths of our industry. Living today is complicated, with countless layers to each person’s experience. But for me, critical thinking, research, and respect are non-negotiables, regardless of any supposed creative genius. I spent a decade working in the U.S. fashion industry, where I saw and felt the same issues you describe. Now that I’m back in Brazil, it’s disappointing to find the industry here even further behind—following the same toxic patterns, with almost no leadership or direction. I’m officially canceling my Apple TV and subscribing to your newsletter! 🥰🤓 TYSM for sharing your voice—it genuinely makes me feel less alone in an industry I both love and struggle with.
Thank you so much for writing such a thoughtful response! I too love fashion – for the craft, for the creativity – but I have long been disillusioned about the industry that props it up. We've reached a point, sadly, where most of the labels I grew up loving have become creatively bankrupt. But I believe we can keep finding ways to do better. I think things might have to completely collapse before they can be rebuilt – and we might be in the early stages of that now. My fingers are crossed for a more positive future. Thank you for subscribing! It means so much to me, and there is much more to come. 🤍
My fingers are crossed too. Can’t wait to read more about your work and sense of critical thinking. Best 🫶
Thank you for your important piece. It is maddening that the industry is so petrified of folks speaking out that no one will say a thing. I hate to think that people are suffering without any recourse. All because of people with status. Sooner or later, the truth will come out. Won't it?
I completely agree. I hope that more and more find themselves able to share their stories. It truly is shameful how people look the other way or make excuses, as though abuse should come with the fashion territory and some just aren't tough enough to endure it. Romanticizing cruelty is one of fashion's worst traits. The truth will absolutely come out.
I wonder why Brenda deleted those tweets lol
Same! My guess would be because she has ties to publications and other businesses that may want to work with/cover Phoebe and Brenda didn't want to cause larger issues. But who knows.
Great read! I want to say I’m surprised but.. Always loved Phoebe at Celine, but reading this (and the fact that the issue wasn’t picked up by major publications is telling! I imagine a cliche ‘toxic’ fashion industry environment, long hours and critical. I’ve worked & interned for some great and some pretentious designers before, and I feel with more exposure of toxic behaviour, the industry is being forced to unlearn a lot and adopt ethical frameworks, which is hopeful 😊
I'm hopeful things will continue improving as well! The industry has let far too much slide for far too long.
Your focus on calling out the real issues involved with the industry is to be commended. The valuable resource “people” being as much a focus of the success of the brand as the all mighty designer who would be nowhere without their team. Please keep going with your insightful coverage of all things real about our industry.
Thank you for your support, always! I wish fashion would shift it's focus away from these megastar creative directors. Just as you said, without genius patternmakers, sewers, fabric developers, leather specialists, and many more, none of this business would be viable.
Truly!!!!
Really appreciated this piece, especially as a fan of her work at Celine. It seems particularly hard to find critical voices in an industry that’s based so much on access & exclusivity. I saw a panel / interview with the Diet Prada duo once and they spoke to the same challenge - hard to get invited to shows etc. when you’re posting about brands’ bad behavior…
Thank you so much for reading and for your comment! It is difficult to find critical voices these days and the few great ones who remain (Cathy Horyn, Robin Givhan, etc) might be the last who have their kind of platform. The outlets which once supported those voices are dwindling and I hope more critical perspectives emerge using new tools.
The thing is… Fashion industry is very stressful and it’s almost impossible to deal with the system on a humane level. From people who work there I hear that she is lovely but that ofc they work too much… Do we think she is trying her best? I hope so. Anyways a great Article we should all try to improve the industry systems that make it so frantic
Excuse my English, not my first language.
Hm. Sounds bad. Having been editor in chief of a big newspaper my reaction is: every company always has umhappy former employees. Your piece would have been stronger if you had included some positiv reviews - if there are any. By the way: I have no connection to her or the fashion business. Thank you.